Stay Upright - Gears & Gear Changing - Part 2

In the last issue we dealt with all the technical whiz-bangery stuff that is going on inside the engine each time we move off, change gears and stop. Let's now look at how the rider can do this smoothly and safely, with minimum wear and tear on their machine. A smooth rider is generally considered to be a good rider. To that end, smooth operation of the controls is a great place to start in being a smooth rider. With the bike running in first gear, smooth take-offs can be achieved by following this system:-

1./ Apply the rear brake firmly to hold the bike stationary until you are ready to move off.
2./ Increase engine revs and begin easing the clutch lever out. You will hear and feel engine RPM drop a little as the clutch plates start to slip against each other. The bike is now trying to move, but it can't as the rear brake is still on. Keep holding the clutch lever at this 'friction point'.
3./ When you are ready to move off, first check for hazards in both mirrors, then over your shoulders and to the sides (your blind spots), then keep your head up and look well ahead.
4./ While maintaining steady throttle control and friction point, slowly ease the pressure on the rear brake lever to allow the bike to glide smoothly forward. Use the rear brake to control the rate of acceleration, maybe even re-applying some brake pressure to slow the bike, if required.
5./ As the bike continues to gain speed, ease the rear brake and clutch levers all the way out.

By following this system, you have a Stay Upright guarantee you will never stall the engine of any manual motorcycle. It also works especially well on hill starts.

CHANGING UP
OK, now you are accelerating in first gear, and engine RPM is increasing. It's nearly time for a gear change. Gear changing is best done while the bike is travelling straight and upright. The speed variation caused by the gear change has no effect on the bike's stability and direction. Changing gears while turning can have undesirable consequences in these two areas.

1./ Check your mirrors for close-following traffic - right now may not be the best time to change gear.
2./ Throttle off, so engine RPM falls to idling speed, braking gently.
3./ De-clutch quickly to disconnect drive from the engine to the rear wheel. If you de-clutch before throttling off, the engine will momentarily rev like crazy - not cool!
4./ Lift the gear lever firmly to the stop and hold it there - NEVER tap at a gear lever, as one day you are sure to get neutral by mistake. How embarrassing and dangerous is that in accelerating traffic? Also, it's a fallacy that holding the lever down (or up) causes multiple gear changes. Only multiple lever action causes multiple changes.
5./ Smoothly release the clutch lever all the way out, while gently rolling the throttle back on.
6./ When the clutch is fully re-engaged, then - and only then - release pressure from the gear lever to ensure a positive change every time.
7./ Accelerate and prepare for the next change.

CHANGING DOWN
The system is almost the same as for changing up, except that the gear lever is pressed down rather than lifted up. Also, ease the clutch out even more slowly to avoid the risk of briefly locking the rear wheel as it re-engages the engine which, by now, is at idling speed. Just before the down change and clutch release you may hear experienced riders apply a quick burst of throttle to synchronise engine RPM with road speed. This makes for an even smoother down change, plus they get to hear the growl of that new aftermarket pipe they just bought!

COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP
If you are preparing to slow to a complete stop, check your mirrors, throttle off, gently apply both brakes and hold the clutch in while repeatedly pressing down and releasing the gear lever. Do this as many times as necessary to be sure that when you eventually stop, you are in first gear. Stay in first gear with the clutch held in, the rear brake applied and check your mirrors regularly until you are ready to move off again. Avoid putting the bike into neutral in traffic situations. To do so would mean you can't respond as quickly to an emergency arising from behind you.

SLOWING, BUT NOT STOPPING
What if you aren't planning to come to a complete stop, but are just slowing, say for a curve? The main difference here is to re-engage the clutch after each down change. By doing this you maintain relatively constant drive to the rear wheel. More importantly, only when the clutch lever is out can you be sure you are in the correct gear for the speed at which you are travelling. Imagine entering an 80kph downhill curve with the clutch in, and having done two or more down changes, having no idea what gear you are in. Halfway through the curve, you let the clutch out, only to find you are in too low a gear. The resulting rear wheel lockup could cause the bike to broadside off the road or into the path of an oncoming car.

Finally, avoid the laziness trap of using gears as brakes. Doing this wastes valuable practice opportunities for the "throttle off, front brake on" technique, a critical emergency stop response. Also, slowing on your gears means stop lights aren't warning following road users of your intentions. A golden rule is "brakes are for slowing, gears are for going"

Until next time . . . stay in the right gear.
Dave Gibson
State Manager ACT
Stay Upright Motorcycle Techniques.