Stay Upright - Winter and Wet Weather Riding
Rain is the most common problem in winter, as it causes slippery road surfaces and reduced visibility. In these conditions, you must apply the brakes gently and, in some situations, with the accent on the rear brake and the engine's own retard effect (when slowing up), all the while exercising constant caution and taking corners slowly.
Keep a good buffer from other vehicles whenever possible, as the vision of other road users is restricted due to windscreens misting up in the cold, or obscured by rain. Add to this the fact that many drivers still do not pay enough attention to motorcycles behind and either side of them. Vehicles in front also throw up a spray of water, which not only can obscure your vision, but also make it hard to speed and distance of the vehicle ahead. Besides rain on the outside of the visor, the inside can mist up too. There are various products, from stick on films to special sprays and more that can significantly reduce this problem.
Rain may be hazardous enough, but frost creates treacherously slippery road surfaces. Frost is at its heaviest at night and early in the morning, so the risks of frozen roads are reduced if journeys in cold weather can be made in the middle of the day. Patches of ice on the road that are thawing, or have thawed, are also more easily seen in daylight. On this, riders should be aware of sections of road shaded by trees, hilltops exposed to winds and gradients shielded from the sun, as ice will persist there when the road has otherwise thawed out. To avoid ice, try not to ride on minor back roads where possible. Stick to main roads that have been scoured by traffic. Concrete surfaces have a roughened texture with grooves running laterally across the road. These have good non-skid properties in dry conditions, but they can hold water, which forms a very treacherous surface when it freezes. Be alert for isolated patches of frozen road like this.
But don't just watch the road surface: keep an eye on other road users, who can often give advance warning of danger. The erratic behaviour of other vehicles may be the only warning you get of one of winter's worst hazards - black ice. This is formed when melted ice that has spread as water over the road during the day freezes again towards nightfall into a smooth coating of ice. In the poor light of a winter evening, or in the headlights, this ice coating can look like an innocent patch of damp: in some circumstances it can be virtually invisible. Watch the road ahead and treat any suspect areas with extreme care.
An indirect result of winter icing is the build up of gravel - used by local authorities to give more traction on slippery surfaces - along the road edge where it has been flung by car and truck wheels. In these conditions, it pays to ride a metre or so further out from the kerb than you normally would. This will keep you out of the gravel and slush, and should also give a drier area of road for your tyres to exert their grip.
Whether you do your own maintenance or rely on your local dealer, it is most important to ensure that your motorcycle is in good shape to carry you through the winter. Your tyres are of primary importance. They should have plenty of tread, and new ones should be fitted before they get down to the limit. Make sure you check your tyre pressures regularly, too. This simplest of maintenance regimens is essential to ensure that your tyres maintain grip on wet and icy roads.
Flooded roads can be much more dangerous for the motorcyclist - at peril from unseen potholes and mud, and bound to be immobilised if water splashes the ignition system. If there is no alternative route, or if the water is only a few centimetres deep on a road whose visible surface is in good condition, then approach the flooded section at a modest pace in low gear, taking care to keep the engine speed up to prevent water from being sucked back up the exhaust pipe. Maintain an even pace, slipping the clutch if necessary to keep up the engine revs, but keep the bike's speed down to avoid water from the front wheel splashing the engine. After leaving the flooded area, remember that the brakes will be well saturated and will have to be dried out. This is best done by riding carefully at low speed with both brakes lightly on. A sensitive touch is called for; after a few hundred metres, speed can be built up, then several hard jabs on the brake pedal and lever should finish the job. Of course, drum types take longer to dry than discs, so on most machines, the rear brakes should be kept gently applied for longer than the front.
Until next time. . . stay upright in the cold and rain.
Warwick Schuberg
